Seoul City Guide.

Seoul holds together contrasts that would never coexist anywhere else. Buddhist temples between high-rises, grandmothers fermenting kimchi on the street next to natural wine bars with international wine lists. Palaces that are centuries old, one of the most dynamic food scenes in Asia, and neighborhoods that reinvent themselves every year without losing their identity.
"A city that carries a thousand years of history and still moves faster than any other."

Art & Galleries

Three spaces, three centuries.

 

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF KOREA, Yongsan

The flagship of Korea's museum landscape, with over 310,000 objects from Korean and Asian history. Cast bronze bells, golden crown ornaments from the Silla Kingdom, Buddhist sculptures, ceramics and paintings that have survived for millennia. During the Korean War, 20,000 objects were taken to safety in Busan, and all of them returned. The building itself is impressive, with an open view through the main hall to Namsan Mountain behind it. Free admission to the permanent exhibition. Almost four million visitors a year, and yet it never feels crowded.

 

PIKNIC, Seongsu

A former industrial building in Seongsu, converted into a space for contemporary art installations and immersive experiences. Every exhibition transforms the space completely, no permanent collection, no predictable concept. Seongsu itself is worth a visit of its own, right next to Café Onion and a growing scene of studios, concept stores and independent galleries that have settled into old factory halls. Check online beforehand to see what is currently on show.

 

ARARIO MUSEUM, Insadong

The former architecture office of Korean architect Kim Swoo-geun, built in 1971 and since 2014 a national cultural heritage site and contemporary art museum. The brick walls deliberately echo the aesthetics of the neighboring Changdeokgung Palace. The collection includes works by Nam June Paik, Damien Hirst, Marc Quinn and Kohei Nawa. The building is a labyrinth of low ceilings, narrow staircases and windows of different shapes, each room different from the last. Open 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., closed on Mondays.

Hidden Gems

Three ways to understand Seoul.

 

BUKCHON HANOK VILLAGE, Jongno

Over 900 preserved hanok houses from the Joseon Dynasty, nestled between Gyeongbokgung Palace and Changdeokgung Palace on a hill in the heart of the old town. Narrow cobbled alleys, curved tiled roofs, small pottery studios, teahouses and galleries behind old wooden doors. The neighborhood is lived in and not a museum, and you can clearly feel it. Laundry hangs on lines, children play in the alleys, grandmothers sit in front of their doorways. Early in the morning before 8 a.m. the alleys are almost empty and the light falls softly across the rooftops. Much busier later in the day, especially on weekends.

 

DONGMYO FLEA MARKET, Dongmyo

One of Seoul's oldest flea markets, open every day but liveliest on Saturdays when the biggest vendors set up their stalls. Old records from the 1970s and 80s, vintage clothing from several decades, Korean ceramics, antique wooden furniture, military memorabilia, kitchenware and curiosities that fit no category. No tourists, no English signs, no concept behind it. Most vendors have been here for decades and know every item in their stall.

 

GYEONGBOKGUNG PALACE, Jongno

The largest of the five royal palaces of the Joseon Dynasty, built in 1395 in the north of the old town. The grounds hold over 330 buildings, pavilions and gates, spread across an area of 410,000 square meters. The main gate Gwanghwamun, the throne hall Geunjeongjeon and the pavilions at Hyangwonjeong Pond are the highlights of the site. The peaks of Bugaksan rise in the background, a backdrop that is hard to forget. Right next to the National Museum of Korea, and the two combine easily in one day.